Angelus is secreted away in Bayswater in one of the capital's last working mews, not far from Hyde Park, this new venture is the brainchild of former Aubergine manager and one-time sommelier at Le Gavroche, Thierry Tomasin. Angelus (named after the monastic Angelus Bell) is housed in what was the old Archery Tavern, a Victorian listed building complete with stained glass and other original features.
The interior has been given a classic 'brasserie de luxe' look, with dark wood, chandeliers, elaborate mirrors, studded banquettes and sumptuous fabrics. True to the brasserie ethos it opens right through the day, and visitors can take advantage of the lounge bar, the main dining area or the al fresco terrace; there's also a chef's table for special occasions.
Unctuous foie gras crème brûlée with a poppy seed crust is a signature dish, but the kitchen delivers an impressive range of top-end modern brasserie dishes with an emphatic French accent. Main courses have a rich seasonal bias, witness yellow pollock cooked 'à la plancha' with pumpkin and chestnuts or roast mallard with light spiced caramel, orange and wild mushrooms, while desserts are mostly re-worked classics like lemon tart with cacao sorbet or quenelles of chocolate with Earl Grey sauce.
Thierry Tomasin has applied his considerable knowledge and skills to this set-up and he drives the whole show with consummate style and enthusiasm. As befits a sommelier, his wine list is a treasure chest of fine drinking at refreshingly approachable prices.
Also featured in: AA Guide, Good Food Guide, Michelin Guide, Zagat, Harden's.
|Alfresco Dining||Vegetarian||Private Dining Room|
|Private Parties||Parking Nearby||Child Friendly|
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