Generally reckoned to be the flagship of the Royal China group - which now has five premier-league restaurants straddling the capital from SW6 to E14 - the Queensway branch is awash with trademark design features. A white frontage with a black awning gives way to a very distinctive dining room complete with a shiny black ceiling and walls covered with elaborate lacquered screens depicting birds in flight, stylish waves and plant motifs.

Dim sum are one of the highpoints and the kitchen can produce some of the most imaginative and skilfully wrought morsels in the business. The range is extensive, from steamed pork and radish dumplings and marinated chicken's feet to fried yam paste with dried meat and char siu buns. Sweet morsels are tantalising delights like steamed sweet egg yolk buns and black sesame paste dumplings in peanut crumbs.

The full menu is a Cantonese whopper, taking in esoteric appetisers like sliced lobster with fresh fruit salad or slivers of preserved pork knuckle with jellyfish, plus a host of familiar items (from steamed sea bass with ginger and spring onions to sautéed chicken with bamboo shoots) and a challenging assortment of 'chef's favourites' including stewed pork belly with preserved cabbage, steamed boneless chicken with ham and Chinese greens, and mixed dried seafood hotpot.

Royal China is also featured in: AA Guide

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Chinese

Simon Man

Lunch: 12.00 (11.00am Sun) through until
Dinner: 11.00pm (11.30pm Fri & Sat) (10.00pm Sun)

Visa, Master Card, American Express

• Private dining room
• Private parties
• Vegetarian menu
• 180 covers

Nearest tube station: Bayswater