Review on The Modern Pantry
Anne Hansen hit the headlines as the joint founder of The Providores (with fellow Kiwi Peter Gordon), and now she has opened her own gaffe The Modern Pantry - with backing from D&D London (formerly Conran restaurants). The setting for this appetisingly named new venture is a Georgian townhouse and defunct steel foundry that has been transformed into a multi-purpose venue incorporating a casual ground-floor cafι/bar/deli and takeaway, plus two more formal dining rooms upstairs.
The interior has been given a fashion-conscious mix of subdued grey walls, leather banquettes and raw copper piping tempered with antique glass candlesticks and old coffee pots. Passers-by drop in for eclectic breakfasts, brunch and all-day fill-ups from a menu that ticks all the right boxes; racy ideas and weird ingredients abound.
If you fancy starting your day with Feta and spring onion waffles or poached tamarillo with Greek yoghurt and Manuka honey that's fine. More substantial - and challenging - nourishment comes later, in the form of krupuk quails' eggs with lime and chilli dipping sauce, chermoula-baked sea bass with quinoa, tomatillo and preserved lemon salad, or grilled miso-marinated onglet steak with cassava chips. Wacky desserts (Kaffir lime meringue or Earl Grey pannacotta with Maury jelly) round things off in style. New Zealand wines get top billing on the global wine list.
The Modern Pantry is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Good Food Guide, Hardens, AA GuideRate this Restaurant
Restaurant Opening Times
Breakfast: 8.00am (9.00am Sat) (10.00am Sun) through until
Dinner: 11.00pm (10.00pm Sun)
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card, American Express