Review on L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Crowned 'chef of the century' in his home country, Joël Robuchon is the latest big name to join the French invasion of London with L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in the heart of Covent Garden. A decade after he officially retired from the heady world of haute cuisine, he decided to dress down and open an informal brasserie within spitting distance of The Ivy.
The real 'action' (if that's the right word for such dedicated, food-focused grazing) happens on the ground floor, which is laid out almost like a sushi bar. You sit at stools lined up along the counter: pick the right one and you'll witness the sheer precision of the work that goes on in the open kitchen. Given that the whole show cost £5m to create, the design is simply stunning.
Head chef Xavier Boyer means business and what you are offered is a succession of immaculately executed, jewel-like creations, beautifully conceived and presented without visual overkill: an egg poached in a creamy broth of girolles served in a Martini glass, minced pig's trotter on tiny toasts, langoustine carpaccio with roasted poppy seed dressing, foie-gras stuffed quail accompanied by truffled mash, basil and lime sorbet with peach – brief descriptions give little idea of what to expect.
You could, of course, book a table in La Cuisine – a more formally laid out, monochrome dining room serving similar food on the first floor of this three-tier pleasuredome. The wine list runs to 370 bins, with France as the frontrunner, 21 Champagne marques and sizeable input from the New World.
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon is also featured in: Michelin GuideRate this Restaurant
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.00 - 3.00pm (12.00 - 4.00pm Sun)
Dinner: 5.30 - 11.00pm (6.30 - 10.30pm Sun)
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card, American Express