A fine family-run mansion with its own salmon fishing rights on the Blackwater River, Ballyvolane House revels in its Italianate Georgian splendour. It stands in wonderful wooded grounds and terraced gardens, with delightful walks, its own trout lake and acres of working farmland beyond.

Eating here is akin to a private country house party. Guests assemble for dinner at eight in a formal dining room laid out with the family silver and all the trimmings. The general idea is for everyone to eat around one large mahogany table - although a few separate tables are provided for those who prefer something more private.

The menus offer no choice until desserts, but they provide a splendid showcase for home-grown garden produce and locally sourced ingredients. Dinner might begin with Ardsallagh goats' cheese and Gubbeen chorizo bruschetta or - perhaps - a bowl of nettle soup with crème fraîche, before roast West Cork cod with mustard mash, herb salad and beurre blanc or rib of Waterford beef with béarnaise sauce. Desserts generally include a traditional pud (lemon curd or blackberry, for example) as well as ice creams and seasonal fruit. Cheeses are from the Irish counties and the global wine list is a class act.

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Modern Irish

Steve Mercer

Dinner: from 8.00pm Mon-Sun

Visa, Master Card, American Express

• Private parties

Accomodation is available, (6 rooms)

Private parking is possible at a location nearby