Review on Paradise by Way of Kensal Green
Paradise by Way of Kensal Green, a flamboyant Victorian watering hole on Kilburn Lane has been given a facelift by the team behind several other London gastropubs (including the Westbury in Kilburn). The interior now has more than a touch of Dickensian 'Gothic vibes' with its ornate mirrors, miniature statues, chandeliers and deliberately worn leather sofas.
Stroll through the traditional saloon bar to reach the lofty 'château-style' dining room; alternatively take advantage of the summery courtyard garden or the discreet rooftop terrace. One menu is served throughout the place, and the food is an amalgam of British and European dishes with plenty of native ingredients in the mix. Leading the kitchen is Australian chef Cat Ashton, who joins the restaurant from Peterham Nurseries Cafe in Richmond, Surrey where she was Head Chef.
Menus evolve from week to week, but you might kick off with - perhaps - Dorset crab and green apple cocktail with shiso salad or potted ham hock and parsley with mustard dressing. Main courses have a seasonal slant, as in roast widgeon with creamed cabbage and bacon or fillet of line-caught sea bass with buttered salsify and spiced red wine sauce, while desserts stay moistly in familiar territory for Yorkshire rhubarb fool, sticky toffee pudding and the like. The name? It's lifted from GK Chesterton's famous rhyming couplet (a reference to nearby Kensal Green cemetery).
Paradise by Way of Kensal Green is also featured in: Michelin Guide, HardensRate this Restaurant
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.00 - 4.00pm Sat (12.00 - 10.00pm Sun)
Dinner: 6.30 - 10.30pm Mon-Sat
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card