A grand-looking brick-and-stone building close to Millennium Square is the setting for this impressive Chinese restaurant, which is one of a trio with branches in Manchester and Bacup. Like its relatives, it is known for its robust renditions of regional food without fashionable detours or westernised compromises.

The regular menu is familiar assortment of mainstream dishes, with easy options like hot-and-sour soup, sliced pork with black fungus and sizzling fillet of beef with green pepper and black bean sauce. The kitchen's real strength, however, is its repertoire of peasant-style specialities from Beijing and Szechuan, which have real fire, potency and zest. Among the chef's specialities are five spicy beef, spicy hot whelks and desserts such as cubes of 'sweet pea delight'. Authentic Peking duck is also on offer, in addition to steamed flour rolls, shallow-fried dumplings and other dim sum.

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Chinese

Lunch: 12.00 through until
Dinner: 11.00pm (12.00am Fri-Sat)

Visa, Master Card

• Private parties