Review on Carlton Riverside
Alan and Mary Ann Gilchrist recently moved from their much-loved Victorian townhouse to a converted, sky-blue inn by the banks of the River Irfon. Nothing else about their incomparable and highly personal venture has changed.
Mary Ann has honed her culinary skills over the years, but still makes a virtue of simplicity. Her style is contemporary, yet there's no flim-flam or posturing; she sources locally and applies the magic touch to all manner dishes, whether it's local lamb served three ways, Montgomery pork with tapenade or wild sea bass with fennel.
The flexible Irfon menu (have one, two or three courses) might bring on board Hay-on-Wye air-dried ham with beetroot and potato salad, seared salmon fillet with new season's asparagus, Jersey Royals and hollandaise, and elderflower syllabub with raspberry coulis. A separate 'chef's menu' features more elaborate ideas like warm salad of seared scallops with lime and coriander dressing ahead of roast fillet of local beef topped with foie gras and served with root vegetable mash, Savoy cabbage, morel and Madeira sauce.
To match the food, Alan Gilchrist has assembled a classy, 80-bin wine list that tours the globe and provides fine drinking from many lands – including Wales. Carlton Riverside also operates as a local pub, with a spacious bar overlooking the riverbank where visitors can sup real ales and enjoy no-frills food.
Carlton Riverside is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Good Food Guide, AA GuideRate this Restaurant
Mary Ann Gilchrist
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: Tue-Sat By appointment
Dinner: 7.00 - 8.30pm Mon-Sat
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card