Review on The Greenhouse
You still approach the Greenhouse via a walkway from a Mayfair mews, but that's about the only surviving feature of this veteran London restaurant. The place has come a long way since the clubby masculinity of Gary Rhodes' reign and it's now entering a new phase with a new man in the kitchen.
The dining room is a smart and chic as ever, with its cool Phillipe Hurel furniture, sober colours and glass cabinets filled with ornamental glassware. Chef Arnaud Bignon previously worked as sous chef under Eric Fréchon at the three-Michelin-starred Bristol in Paris.
Ingredients are emphatically seasonal and the kitchen procures what it can from near and far. Dishes such as pan-fried foie gras with Rubinette apple and fresh walnut vinaigrette, or saddle of fallow deer with pear chutney and celeriac 'tagliatelle' are suffused with the scents and flavours of autumn. The kitchen also relishes faraway possibilities – as in 'ketchup lobster' (with Thai basil, Heirloom tomatoes and tempura claw) or Shetland organic cod with hummus, chick peas and chicken jus.
Desserts span everything from 'haute' apricot mille-feuille with sweet almond ice cream and apricot jam to wacky 'snix' (chocolate, salted caramel and peanuts) and the cheese trolley is a joy to behold. Bonnet's seven-course tasting menu hits the button if you're feeling flush. The Greenhouse wine list is a stunner of epic proportions, with pages of pedigree French vintages and just about every corner of the winemaking globe represented.
The Greenhouse is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Good Food Guide, AA GuideRate this Restaurant
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.00 - 2.30pm Mon-Fri
Dinner: 6.30 - 10.30pm Mon-Sat
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card, American Express