Review on Theo Randall at the InterContinental
'Theo Randall is the most famous chef you have never heard of,' quipped one reviewer, for years he was the quiet man of the River Café, valiantly playing third fiddle to Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers, now he's out on his own, presiding over a flagship restaurant in the revamped, five-star InterContinental Hotel.
Gone is the chintzy old-school elegance of the dining room's previous incumbent, Le Soufflé: in its place you'll find glass dividing walls and stylish wood flooring with leather and marble tiles, plus an open kitchen complete with a wood-fired oven. Fans of the River Café will feel right at home with a menu that mines that rich seam of Italian regional cuisine, which cynics might dub 'Tony Blair Tuscan' – in other words, peasant-style fantasies for the middle classes. That said, Randall's food is great stuff.
Menus change daily, and the whole procession is irresistible. Carpaccio, bagna cauda and squid with Lamon borlotti beans, chilli and anchovies start things rolling, before pasta (agnolotti stuffed with slow-cooked veal, partridge, pancetta and Parmesan, for example). Following on are dishes like bourride di pesce, wood-roasted Anjou pigeon with Castellucio lentils, and char-grilled French veal chop with salsa verde, Swiss chard and braised fennel. Choose your pud from the dessert counter – perhaps quince tart or flour-free chocolate cake. The wine list favours Italy, but there are more than enough heavyweights from elsewhere to keep everyone happy.
Theo Randall at the InterContinental is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Hardens
Restaurant reviewed by Jenny McGregorRate this Restaurant
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.00 – 3.00pm Mon-Fri
Dinner: 6.00 - 11.00pm Mon-Sat
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card, American Express