This is a peach of a place. The elegant Georgian manor house is reached via an avenue of 200-year-old beech trees with secluded gardens all around. Over the years it has been lovingly nurtured and meticulously refurbished by Chris and Gunna Chown, who have been here long enough to cement the hotel's enviable reputation. Menus are short and to the point (just five choices at each stage), with no unnecessary flamboyance or trendy detours in the world of fusion or fashion.

For openers, you might find shellfish tagliatelle with wild garlic alongside seared breast of pigeon with bubble 'n' squeak, while main courses could encompass everything from unadorned roast turbot with lime hollandaise and asparagus to slightly more exotic breast of guinea fowl with mango, celeriac and fragrant lime leaf sauce.

Completing this show of assured simplicity are desserts such as unashamedly patriotic bara brith bread-and-butter pudding with Welsh whisky sauce as well as apricot and ginger parfait with pistachio praline. The 400-bin wine list is a glorious collection of bottles, with France taking centre stage, but plenty of equally impressive stuff from the New World.

Plas Bodegroes is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Good Food Guide, AA Guide

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Modern Welsh

Chris Chown

Lunch: 12.00 - 2.00pm Sun
Dinner: 7.00 - 9.00pm Tue-Sat

Visa, Master Card

• Disabled access
• Private dining room
• Private parties
• Vegetarian menu
• 40 covers

Accomodation is available, (11 rooms)