Aynsome Manor Hotel - Grange over Sands

Two generations of the Varley family continue to preside over this elegant old manor house, once the distinguished residence of the descendants of the Earl of Pembroke (founder of Cartmel's ancient twelfth-century priory). From the hotel, you can gaze over the untouched Vale of Cartmel, southwards to the priory itself.

There's a feel of gentility about the place, with its curving stairway and ornate ceilings, and the cooking fits nicely with the setting, offering modern dishes with a few exotic flourishes.

Aysome's smoked haddock and salmon fishcake is a classic, served with dill and cucumber linguine, toasted coconut and lemon beurre blanc, or you might begin with a hot salad of black pudding, chorizo and soft poached egg with balsamic dressing. Following on, expect anything from pan-fried tenderloin of British beef on sweet potato ragoût with bordelaise sauce to seared fillets of red snapper en papillote with Thai-fragrant prawns, citrus and vanilla butter sauce.

All sorts of local ice creams might figure on the dessert menu, along with, say, apricot bread-and-butter pudding or crème brûlée with caramelised pear and rhubarb compote. The comprehensive, wide-ranging wine list offers ample choice at very fair prices.