Jack in the Green - Rockbeare

Situated beside the old A30, some three miles from Exeter, the Jack in the Green has evolved into one of the most stylish pub/restaurants in east Devon. Four acres of grounds surround the white pebbledash building, and the interior is a rabbit warren of rooms bedecked with prints and horse brasses.

Devon-brewed Otter Ale is on draught in the traditionally furnished bar, and the blackboard menu picks up the local theme with slow-braised shoulder of organic beef from Fishleigh Estate, lamb hot pot and braised faggot with red onion marmalade.

The commendably short restaurant menu is in similar vein, although the kitchen cranks up the action with the likes of grilled red mullet with garlic chips and parsley coulis, spiced Creedy Carver duck breast accompanied by apple and cardamom purée, and desserts such as chocolate and chestnut mousse or an assiette of orange. Eight wines by the glass top the knowledgably chosen list.