Tanners Restaurant - Plymouth

Housed in one of the oldest surviving domestic buildings in Plymouth (originally a merchant's house) Christopher and James Tanner's eponymous restaurant continues to go from strength to strength. The brothers are now household names on the TV celeb chef circuit and their establishment scooped AA Restaurant of the Year for England 2008.

Inside, there are decorative echoes of Medieval times with solid refectory-style tables, tapestries, an illuminated well and florid quotes inscribed on rough stone walls. By contrast, the cooking is firmly rooted in the twenty-first century. Fish from the West Country ports shows up strongly in the guise of - say - Brixham crab risotto with ginger emulsion or pan-fried fillet of brill with smoked shrimp cannelloni, pak choi and chorizo oil.

Elsewhere, expect ravioli of rabbit and tarragon with tomato consommé, roast loin and braised haunch of Bodmin venison, and desserts such as banana bavarois with dark chocolate sorbet and hot chocolate espuma. Simpler stuff is offered at lunchtime (home-cured salmon with waffles, confit of duck with chorizo cassoulet, for example) and the up-to-date wine list spreads it net across the globe.