Sumosan - Mayfair

A hybrid of 'Japanese gastronomy and Western sophistication' owned and run by a team from Sumosan in Moscow, this high-fashion Mayfair hotspot is a playground for the beautiful people. It looks sleek, cool and polished (like most of its customers) and impresses right from the start. Cross the tinted blue-glass step above a mock-Japanese garden to reach the modish dining room, which shows off its beige oak floors, macassa wood tables and shades of lush royal purple, chocolate and caramel.

Modern Japanese fusion is the style and dishes look impressively dramatic on the plate. Sushi and sashimi are star turns, with everything from hokki clams and flying fish roe to goose liver and even Peking duck on offer. Elsewhere, the kitchen prefers invention to tradition: the Sumosan tartar involves tuna, avocado, quail egg and Sevruga caviar seasoned with truffle oil, while main courses might involve roast wild rabbit with girolle mushrooms or turbot on a bed of cauliflower and broccoli risotto alongside black cod in miso, chicken yakitori and a clutch of teppanyaki specials. As a pyrotechnic finale, go for wild berry dorayaki with almond and plum wine sauce, which arrives at the table engulfed in flames.