The Larder on Goosegate - Nottingham

Jesse Boot's original chemists shop (circa 1850) is the unlikely setting for this bright new venture that promises to fly the flag and deliver 'honest British food using local produce'. Proprietor Gavin Cox means what he says: his 28-day hung beef only travels '21 miles from the field to the plate', Skylark Hill goats' cheese is produced in Cropwell Bishop, coffee beans are specially roasted by Arden's in nearby Derbyshire, and Castle Rock real ale is brewed within walking distance of the restaurant.

Comfortable Chesterfields, elegant chandeliers and soothing colours create a laid-back atmosphere, and the kitchen dispenses no-frills seasonal dishes with an authentic ring. Smoked haddock and spinach tart or garden herb risotto might open the show, ahead of slow-cooked belly of pork with sage and apple gravy or braised shoulder of Vale of Belvoir lamb with root vegetable mash and thyme pan juices. Comforting nursery puds like treacle tart, fruit crumble and lemon posset with candied lemon crunch round things off.

To go with the food, there's a cracking selection of wines, supplied (of course!) by the Nottingham-based family firm of Weavers. Look for the brace of English names that also get in on the act.