Albannach - Lochinver

Colin Craig and Lesley Crosfield have been in residence here for nigh on two decades and have picked up a string of accolades over the years (including, most recently, a Michelin star). They are totally dedicated to buying and using what is local: seafood comes from small boats landing at the pier, Highland crofters grow vegetables for the kitchen, game and free-range meat are from Morayshire and there's an infectious enthusiasm for all things wild and free. Even their pottery is made by a friend and near neighbour.

Dinner is a five-course feast that might take in a warm tartlet of Lochinver crab with vine tomato chutney and spiced butternut squash soup before homing in on roast saddle of venison with braised red cabbage, truffled carrot and parsnip purée, tarragon mash and port wine sauce. After that, expect Celtic cheeses and a dessert such as hot chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream and plums poached in Sauternes.

Colin's 300-bin wine list continues to evolve globally, although pedigree vintages from great French producers are his first love.