The Crown at Whitebrook - Monmouth

There's something of a French auberge about this former pub in three acres of grounds close to the River Wye and Offa's Dyke path. It now operates as an 'original restaurant-with-rooms' and puts on a pleasingly unsophisticated air – even though it has recently acquired a Michelin star.

The Crown's beamed restaurant occupies what was the original seventeenth-century inn and it is neatly appointed in classical style, with crisp napery and highly polished cutlery. By contrast, the food is bold and contemporary – witness pan-fried wild sea bass with a sweet onion quiche, golden beetroot purée and chilled vanilla aïoli or confit of turbot with smoked ham and pea beignet, caper purée and burnt sherry butter sauce.

Meat dishes often strike an earthier note – perhaps roast crown of poussin with peppered cabbage, sweet potato Anna and smoked olive sauce or char-grilled sirloin of beef with glazed shin 'presse' and oxtail tortellini. A trio of 'savoury' desserts or an assiette of ice creams could end the show, or you might prefer dark chocolate sponge with bananas custard and rum jelly. Affordable 'recommended wines' sit alongside heavyweight classic reds on the well-chosen global list.