Marco @ Milano - Sheffield

Marco and Yasmin Giove chose the unlikely setting of Millhouses police station for their likeable Italian restaurant. Since opening in 2000, it has become something of a landmark in the quiet suburbs of Sheffield, opposite the local park. Inside, all is stylish, cool and minimalist, with the additional bonus of an al fresco dining area for those late summer evenings.

It has been hailed as an 'exceptional Italian', where the food never disappoints and the atmosphere is alluringly relaxed. The menu features traditional dishes drawn from the bedrock of trattoria standards, as in porcini risotto, rabbit with creamy polenta, pheasant with Umbrian lentils and saltimbocca alla romana.

Occasionally the kitchen goes walkabout for Thai fishcakes with crème fraîche and chilli jam or aromatic crispy duck with Chinese vegetables, but its back to the homeland for desserts such as panettone bread-and-butter pudding. The wine list has a plenty of gluggable Italian stuff, alongside bottles from France and the New World.