Al Sultan - Mayfair

A veteran among the Lebanese brigade clustered around Shepherd Market, Al Sultan continues to please the punters with its good-humoured service, amenable setting and reasonably priced food.

The menu majors in skilfully handled meze – almost 50 items ranging from cold tabbouleh, stuffed vine leaves, barasia (leeks cooked in olive oil and tomato) and shinklish (Lebanese cheese salad) to hot items such as falafel, firri (grilled quails with garlic sauce) and beid ghanam (fried lambs' testicles).

Main courses centre on big helpings of animal protein in the form of kebabs and grills, although there are a few fish alternatives (Dover sole or sea bass with spicy sauce, for example). Also look for the 'dish of the day' (on Monday it might be courgettes stuffed with rice and minced lamb served with yoghurt sauce). There are also a few salads and some authentically sticky sweets and cakes to finish. Drink mint tea or explore the fistful of gutsy Lebanese wines from the better-than-average list.