Marco Pierre White’s Yew Tree Inn
Hollington Cross
Andover Road
Highclere
Berkshire
RG20 9SE
Type of Cuisine Modern European
Chef Neil Thornley
Price Range £££££
Lunch 12.00 - 2.30pm (3.00pm Sun)
Dinner 6.00 - 9.30pm (9.00pm Sun)
Marco-Pierre White's name is written large above the door of this seventeenth-century pub close to Highclere Castle and there's no doubt that the one-time wild boy of the London restaurant scene still has an influence of what goes on in the kitchen here. Like a number of high-profile chefs, he enjoys the role of (mostly) absentee landlord/publican, but the place does its job and the food is serious.
The pub side of things is still dyed-in-the-wool rustic, with ancient beams, huge logs smouldering in the inglenook fireplace and real ales on handpump, but there's a more contemporary feel to the various dining areas, where light wood furnishings and smart wooden floors set the tone.
Menus change daily and the mix is classic and modern by turns: here you might find a risotto of local crayfish with fresh grated Reggiano Parmesan and fillet of beef with roasted root vegetables, wild mushrooms and Madeira jus sharing the bill with sage-crusted calf's liver with cauliflower purée or roast fillet of brill with truffled macaroni, wild rocket, lemon dressing and crisp bacon shards.
Finish with, say, raspberry soufflé with frozen sweet yoghurt and orange tuiles, and peruse the bin ends on the serviceable and keenly priced wine list.
Also featured in: Good Food Guide.
| Private Parking | Accommodation | Accepts Cards |