La Petite Maison - Exeter

Situated just a short drive from the centre of Exeter, Douglas, Elizabeth and Naomi Pestell's utterly charming, family-run restaurant has more than a touch of French auberge about it, and the building displays its heritage with white stucco, a bow window and a Dutch fireplace in the curiously curved main dining room.

Local ingredients are treated with care and the results are invariably on target. As summer turns to autumn, you might find starters such as Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffle oil or pigeon breast with cauliflower purée, bacon and game jus setting the tone. To follow, there might be medallions of venison served on a celeriac and potato rösti with salsify, caramelised pear, red wine and game jus, a feuilleté of wild mushrooms with creamy leeks or fillets of brill and monkfish with spinach bubble 'n' squeak, spaghetti of vegetables and chive beurre blanc.

Desserts are also true to the seasons – Bramley apple, sultana and crunchy walnut crumble with clotted cream or warm prune, cognac and almond tart with prune and orange compote, for example. There are wines from West Country vineyards on the admirable globetrotting wine list.