Raglan Arms - Usk

Deep in Welsh farming country between Usk and Raglan, this two-story 'red stone' hostelry has cleverly made the transition from drinkers' den to reputable pub/restaurant. Inside, it still has a traditional bar dispensing local brews, but most attention now focuses on the stylish conservatory dining area with its deep terracotta walls, leather sofas and enticing blackboard menus.

Supplies of fish arrive daily from Cardiff market, and the kitchen comes up with sharp modern dishes such as beef carpaccio with shaved beetroot and Parmesan or sea bream with lemon and tarragon sauce. Elsewhere, the day's choice might feature calf's liver with champ, casseroled oxtail with beer and root vegetables, and wild boar with apple and Stilton sauce. Desserts such as iced strawberry parfait or crème brûlée with red berry compote and a short, global wine list complete the picture.