Spire Restaurant - Liverpool

The regeneration of Liverpool's Allerton Road district continues, and this recent arrival close to iconic Penny Lane is making a significant contribution to the local scene. Inside, it's smart, stylish and a touch minimalist, with polished wood floors, beech seating and a wrought-iron staircase linking the two dining rooms

Matt Locke earned his stripes as head chef of the auspicious London Carriage Works in Hope Street before teaming up with brother Adam to open Spire in Church Road (geddit!). Lunch brings brasserie-style salads, ciabattas and a few heftier offerings like braised brisket of beef, while the dinner menu offers sharp, seasonal modern dishes with a European slant.

Pan-fried scallops with roasted chorizo, Bury black and white pudding, herb salad and red pepper coulis is a typically colourful starter, while mains could range from roast Whitby cod with mussel chowder and tempura anchovies to roast Gressingham duck on buttered spring cabbage with plum tart and roasted potato. Rounding things off are desserts like citrus soufflé with hot chocolate ice cream.

A good-value, fixed-price menu runs on Monday evenings and clocks in for the early-evening shift from 6.00 – 7.30pm Tuesday -Thursday. The wine list is an evolving slate of around 60 carefully chosen bins.