The Hambrough - Robert Thompson - Isle of Wight

Overlooking Ventnor Bay on the southern reaches of the Isle of Wight, the Hambrough Hotel is reaping the benefits of a thorough and extensive refit. At first glance it still looks like an imposing Victorian stone villa, but inside it now has all the pizzazz and style of a contemporary boutique hotel.

There are spectacular sea views from the windows of the aptly named Ocean Restaurant – a minimalist dining room dominated by a fine marble fireplace. New chef Robert Thompson (ex-Cliveden and Winteringham Fields) is now at the stoves and has quickly gained the place a Michelin star. His menus are full of culinary invention: a terrine of lightly smoked eel might be served with foie gras, pork belly and Granny Smith apple, while confit of cod is paired with globe artichoke, organic Isle of Wight yolk and aged balsamic. Mains are equally dazzling - fillet of red mullet with seared scallops, Kalamata olives and smoked garlic sauce, say.

Desserts also put on a breathtaking show, whether it's a cylinder of chocolate and coffee with mint cream or caramelised pear cream with bitter chocolate sorbet and liquorice tuile. The Hambrough recently introduced a 'chef's table' and tasting menu for those who like to feel the heat of the kitchen. Imaginatively chosen French wines dominate the concise, fairly priced list.