Ode - Shaldon

Devon-born Tim Bouget learned his culinary skills at the Waterside Inn, Bray before cooking all over the world. In 2006 he returned to the UK and opened Ode in his native county. This is an intimate venue with impeccable eco-credentials: the interior has been sympathetically refurbished using recycled glass and local timber, while the gastronomic emphasis is firmly on local produce, sustainable line-caught fish and organically grown vegetables.

Warm fillet of Torbay mackerel is served with smoked paprika aïoli, barley, grape and pumpkin seed oil, while breast of Credition duck is cooked 'under vacuum' with star anise and accompanied by a salad of William pear, pea shoots and ginger miso emulsion. Elsewhere, there are classic touches (roast Shaldon lobster with Montpelier butter, for example), although desserts let rip with - say - roast orchard plum semifreddo with slow-poached plums, pink peppercorn and Sauternes infusion.

On Tuesdays (6.00 - 8.00pm) the restaurant is given over to regular cheese and wine tastings. Needless to say, the wine list is 100% organic, with bottles from accredited producers across the globe.