Duck's at Kilspindie - Aberlady

The country cousin of Duck's at Le Marche Noir in Edinburgh (now open only for private functions), this restaurant is housed in the extensively re-vamped Kilspindie Hotel, some 20 minutes' drive from the city centre. Light bistro-style meals are served in the bar, but most attention focuses on the upbeat modern food offered in the cosy dining room.

Scottish produce is the jumping off point for a menu of vivid dishes with a strong French and Mediterranean bias. A brochette of scallops and black pudding comes with rocket and fennel salad, fillet of Buccleuch beef is accompanied by a haggis tartlet and wild mushrooms, while new season's rack of lamb is served with gratinated macaroni, confit tomatoes and roast garlic.

Matching the food is a mightily impressive, award-winning wine list with a fine selection by the glass. Malcolm Duck has toured the world's vineyards in search of quality, although list has a deliberately 'inflated' French section.