Cullen's at the Cottage - Cong

This demure thatched cottage stands on the lawns of Ashford Castle (just a stroll across the river from the hotel), and is named in honour of the late Peter Cullen (well-respected maître d' for more than 25 years). It offers something refreshingly different and eminently accessible, in stark contrast to the unashamed opulence of eating at 'the big house'.

Inside, it is a homely mix of plain wood tables, burgundy banquettes and tiled floors, with the prospect of sitting outside and gazing at the Castle when the weather allows. Ashford's head chef, Stefan Matz, oversees the kitchen – although the food might come from a different universe. Meals are served right through the day, seven days a week, and it's possible to call in for just a cappuccino or a pannini.

The full menu offers straightforward brasserie-style dishes along the lines of Caesar salad, seafood chowder, Irish beef stew with crisp onion rings and glazed lamb shank with roast garlic and balsamic jus followed by desserts such as apple crumble or crème brûlée with apricot sorbet. The modest wine list is a neat slate of around 20 affordably priced bottles.