The Only Running Footman - Mayfair

A serious refurb has regenerated The Only Running Footman, a charmingly old-fashioned Mayfair watering hole off Berkeley Square. There's plenty of noise, action and pubby bonhomie in the bustling ground-floor bar: pints are pulled at the mahogany bar, punters sit at scrubbed tables or in navy leather booths under antler chandeliers, and the menu is chalked up on a big board. Generous gastropub favourites are the order of the day: expect Welsh rarebit with watercress, black pudding with field mushrooms, pies, fresh fish from Brixham and a few homespun puds.

The restaurant occupies the first floor. Here you will find clothed tables, patterned carpets, gold velvet chairs, courteous waitresses and a menu that takes itself a bit more seriously. Kick off with terrine of foie gras and green peppercorns with sweet wine jelly or tagliatelle with langoustines before Suffolk free-range chicken with mash, hazelnuts and chive dressing or scallop and crab sausage with baby spinach and Champagne sauce. Man-sized mixed grills and steaks are also on offer, and desserts span everything from Valrhona chocolate pudding to Bakewell tart.

If real ale isn't your bag, it's worth investigating the zesty modern wine list, which is chopped up into categories like 'hodgepodge and delicacies'. Above the restaurant is a private dining room and chef's table, which also doubles as a pint-sized cookery school.