Alain Ducasse currently holds 15 Michelin stars worldwide, and his new restaurant at the Dorchester has quickly joined the ranks, with its perfectly executed food in sleek surroundings: 'it's a beautifully designed restaurant in a beautiful address, in a unique hotel in a unique city,' says Ducasse with a degree of modesty.
The cooking here is suitably luxurious - as you might expect. Squid bonbons are served with crunchy green vegetables and coco chutney, braised halibut comes with spicy lemon 'condiment' and sautéed cereals, while fillets of Dover sole are presented in the Florentine style with shrimps, Paris mushrooms and Château Chalon sauce.
Meat and game are rooted in the classic world, thus venison is served 'en cocotte' with a mélange of fruit and vegetables and Grand Veneur sauce, while 'poulette Jaunes de Landes' appears in a fricassee with crayfish. A re-working of rum Baba 'like in Monte Carlo' is the star turn when it comes to desserts.
None of this comes cheap, and if you order a serious bottle of wine the bill will rocket skywards: the 600-bin list is dominated by some of the most expensive French labels, and you will struggle to find much below £40.
Also featured in: AA Guide, Good Food Guide, Michelin Guide, Harden's.
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