Hammer & Pincers - Wymeswold

In rolling countryside between Loughborough and Melton Mowbray, Hammer & Pincers is a seriously updated village pub that's making a strong impact with its good looks and fine food. Inside it looks cool and contemporary, with dramatic modern artwork on the walls and black leather settees in the front bar.

Dining takes place in a several linked areas with chunky pine furniture and funky lighting. Meat from local butcher Collingtons shows up in, say, fillet of beef with hand-cut chips and tarragon butter or herb-crusted rack of lamb, while game from Widmerpool and Prestwold Estates is put to good seasonal use.

Elsewhere, the menu runs through foie gras parfait with fig chutney, line-caught sea trout with crayfish mash, lobster sauce, fava beans and tomato, and desserts such as pears poached in Sauternes with homemade waffles and chilled pear liqueur sabayon. Eight-course tasting menus suggest that the kitchen has lofty restaurant aspirations, but good-value set lunches and popular Saturday brunch bring things back down to earth.