Maze Grill - Mayfair

Perched across the corridor from its Michelin-starred elder sibling, Maze Grill brings the all-American steakhouse to Mayfair. It's a down-to-earth, but auspicious affair done out in shades of brown with chocolate circles on the ceiling, some curved green leather banquettes and close-packed tables; up at one end, by the kitchen, is a solid 'butcher's block' communal table where big-spending parties can watch the kitchen action while they eat.

Maze Grill has the advantage of an authentic New York broiler, which crisps up the steaks to 650oC after they have been given the treatment over the coals. Top-end Hereford, Casterbridge, Creekstone prime USDA and seriously pricey Wagyu '9th grade' are served on hefty wooden boards with razor-sharp steak knives in cool sheaths reading 'rare', 'medium' and so on; sides and sauces are chosen as you order.

Framing the chunks of high-class protein are eclectic starters and small plates ranging from salt and pepper squid with green chilli to confit tomatoes with chorizo, potatoes and bitter shallots plus desserts including cider apple trifle and cinnamon doughnuts with cafe coupe and hot chocolate. The beefy wine list is up to the high standard one expects from the Ramsay brand, although mark-ups can seem pretty daunting.