Goldfish - Hampstead

A modest, sky-blue frontage and a rather gaudy sign give no indication of the oriental delights on offer in this exciting recent arrival on the rather sparse Hampstead gastro-scene. Goldfish is a dinky little place divided up into three (even dinkier) dining areas with all manner of artefacts and decorative features lighting up the interior.

Vibrant goldfish friezes, luxuriant floral displays, hanging screens and a little slate-tiled waterfall by the entrance set the tone for a menu that is self-proclaimed 'modern Chinese' but is peppered with forays into the realms of pan-Asian fusion. Trolleys of superior dim sum are the high points at lunchtime (anything from familiar sui mai steamed dumplings to har gau).

The main menu is full of palate teasers alongside tried-and-tested stir-fries and the like. In particular, look for mocha pork ribs in chocolate and chilli sauce, deep-fried prawns in a sauce of avocado and wasabi, pan-fried ostrich with wild mushrooms and black pepper, and steamed sea bass in a limpid soy consommé with shimeji mushrooms. The tables are bare and prices are far from Chinatown cheap, but the kitchen delivers - an enthusiastic service is well up to the task.