Langan's Brasserie - Piccadilly Circus

Spring 2008 was something of a landmark for Langan's - it closed for the first time in more than three decades to allow for a slight refurb and brush-up. Nothing serious, but the result is brighter, crisper and fresher; the pictures have been given a clean, the ornate curios and artefacts have been spruced up and plenty of French polish has been applied to the surfaces. Regulars breathed a collective sigh of relief that this icon had not been mutilated by some trendy design team.

Happy eaters continue to pack the animated ground-floor dining room and the more sedate Venetian Room upstairs for consistently enjoyable food of the old school, served by a team who know exactly what they're doing.

The menu still has its nostalgic favourites - spinach soufflé with anchovy sauce, seafood salad, roast duck with sage and onion stuffing, strawberry Pavlova - but the kitchen has moved with the times and there's a healthy note to many of the current dishes. Starters of smoked duck breast with baby spinach might give way to roast wild sea bass with rocket salad or grilled swordfish steak with balsamic dressing - although there's still plenty for those who revel in the world of roast sirloin of beef or bangers and mash.