Fish! Restaurant - Borough Market

Sandwiched between a railway bridge and Southwark Cathedral, Fish! occupies a grand glass and steel pavilion right at the heart of that foodie Mecca, Borough Market. It is still furnished as a diner with an open-to-view kitchen and a summertime terrace, although the interior now sports rich brown colours, lots of dark wood and splashes of 'Hermes' orange.

Fish is carefully sourced from sustainable supplies and everything is prepared daily at Tony Allan's own fishmongers (Jarvis in Kingston upon Thames). The repertoire itself has recently been pared right down to the basics - namely that great British classic, beer-battered fish with fresh-cut chips. Choose from plaice, cod, haddock and halibut (all from sustainable sources), which can be accompanied by a tub of mushy peas on the side.

Owner Tony Allan also runs Fish! Kitchen in Kingston upon Thames - the first of a proposed chain of casual fish-and-chip cafés that may soon be dotted around the capital.