Dolada - Mayfair

Dolada is fashionably located in a Mayfair basement beneath a DKNY shop, just round the corner from The Ritz, the expense-account favourite Mosaico has morphed into Dolada thanks to the arrival of Venetian chef Riccardo de Pra and the new name pays homage to his parents' restaurant on the slopes of Mount Dolada overlooking Lake Santa Croce.

Management is unchanged, and the dining room is as sleekly groomed as can be with framed photographs, a mirror strip for people-watching, ever-so-cool lighting and burgundy leather seating. It makes a chic setting for Riccardo's hearty food.

The menu picks up lots of classic and regional themes, with antipasti yielding octopus terrine with rocket and tuna mayonnaise, delicate tortellini 'in brodo' and luxurious scampi carpaccio with caviar. Primi piatti take in everything from de-constructed spaghetti carbonara (pasta and other ingredients served separately for tossing at table) to snail risotto, while mains take a more traditional path with the likes of venison ragù, wild pigeon with Marsala-braised shallots, veal chop all milanese and lamb cutlets with radicchio and red wine sauce. Old-school tiramisu, semifreddo and luscious homemade ice creams round things off, and the all-Italian wine list (Champagne and port aside) promises plenty of good drinking across the range.