The Spread Eagle - Greenwich

The Spread Eagle is part tourist attraction, part re-invented seventeenth-century London coaching inn, The Spread Eagle restaurant continues to pull in crowds from the nearby Greenwich Theatre and beyond. Inside, it's now reaping the benefits of a significant – but sympathetic – refurb, with mahogany panelled walls, corniced ceilings and oak floors embellished with antiquarian prints of old Greenwich.

Nothing has changed in the kitchen, where seasonal British ingredients, rare-breed meats and the like are subjected to ambitious modern French treatment. There are lots of tricksy ideas, unexpected combinations and oriental influences at work – witness tuna tartare with oyster and foie gras tempura and a cappuccino of ceps, pot-roast duck on the bone with spices, artichoke confit and liquorice sauce, and roast lobster with rosemary, red pepper velouté and mushroom croquette. Simplicity returns with desserts such as crème caramel and spiced pear tart.

Set lunches are excellent value and the Spread Eagle is noted for its full vegetarian tasting menu; there's also some excellent drinking from little-known regions on the emphatically French wine list. The restaurant is part of a working complex that also includes antiques, furniture restoration and antiquarian books.