Galvin at Windows - Mayfair

It was billed as the biggest launch and gastro-event of 2006 and the brand new Galvin at Windows already looks to be on top of the world. 'Fine dining with a view' is a serious understatement for this re-incarnated showpiece restaurant on the 28th floor of the London Hilton.

United Designers - the team behind Nobu and other big eateries - have restyled the interior: glamour abounds, and the legendary wrap-around views simply add to the overall impression of pure metropolitan style. It's a big operation - open for breakfast, lunch and dinner - and a lot of the old stuffy formality has been stripped away.

Top man Chris Galvin brought in his old Orrery colleague André Garrett to take on the mantle of head chef, and it could become a winning partnership. Their food is modern French with a touch of 'bistrot complexity' and a glamorous sheen; there are no amuses-bouche or pre-desserts to interrupt the flow, and dishes are dictated by the market.

Richness, intensity and concentrated flavours are the hallmarks of just about everything on the menu, whether it's a classic velouté Germiny or seared foie gras with salsify and grapes moistened with Sauternes. A quartet of main courses might range from wild sea bass with braised fennel and a red wine fumet to poached and grilled Anjou pigeon with peas, lettuce and button onions, while the highlight of current desserts is surely chocolate fondant served at room temperature with white chocolate ice cream. Some fabulous wines set things off perfectly.