Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's - Mayfair

Claridge's is synonymous with luxurious living, big reputations and royalty, and it has taken Gordon Ramsay in its stride. Since taking over the restaurant, the GR brand has stamped its mark on the food and the decor: the lofty dining room now boasts three-tiered light shades, etched glass panels and a curious mix of vibrant colours.

Ramsay's long-time sidekick Mark Sargeant recently gave up his position as head chef, and his place has been taken by Steve Allen (an internal promotion). Little else has changed and the kitchen continues to turn out highly impressive modern European food, defined by great ingredients, impressive skill and direct flavours.

Sauté scallops with Jerusalem artichoke risotto and sherry vinegar caramel is a typically exact starter and the seafood theme extends to main courses like fillet of sea bream with caramelised endive, grilled English asparagus and light vanilla sauce.

On the meat front, roast cannon of lamb with slow-cooked confit shoulder, white bean purée, baby leeks and rosemary jus is a classic. Likewise, desserts such as Valrhona chocolate fondant with feuillantine and milk ice cream are out of the top drawer. The thoroughbred Claridge's wine list is a stellar collection dominated by the French heavy brigade, veering off into antiquity as prices rise.