Le Gavroche - Mayfair

Brothers Albert and Michel Roux made Le Gavroche synonymous with high-art classical French cuisine in London, even before they moved to the current premises in Upper Brook Street. The opulent basement dining room – all rich drapery, flowers, candles and paintings – is the scene for 'special event dining', Michelin-style (currently two stars).

These days, Michel Roux junior (actually son of Albert) heads the kitchen, following in his father's gastronomic footsteps and producing dishes that are textbook versions of the classic repertoire. Menus change seasonally and there's a certain secretiveness about it all, but the kind of things to expect are (translated into prosaic English) globe artichokes filled with velvety foie gras and chicken mousse, langoustines and earthy morels in Madeira sauce or loin of venison with caramelised root vegetables, wild mushrooms and cranberry sauce. State-of-the-art pastrywork points up desserts like apple tart Tatin and soufflés are in a class of their own.

The magisterial wine list oozes pedigree richness and old-school affluence, and the place has another ace up its sleeve. In a shock move, Michel has introduced a beer menu to go with some of his signature dishes. 'Beer should be perceived as a sophisticated gourmet drink', and to prove the point he is offering Liefmans Kriek cherry beer (great with spicy seared tuna), Champagne-yeast fermented Kasteel Cru, pudding-friendly Rochefort 8 and more besides.