Andrew and Christine Pulford run a two-pronged set-up here. On the ground floor is an up-market fish-and-chip shop, upstairs is Neptune Bistro - an expectedly fashionable dining room with eye-catching minimalist décor and a menu that goes well beyond first expectations.

Fish from the local boats makes a big impact, although ideas and influences are gleaned from around the globe. Steamed Anglesey mussels with fragrant Thai sauce are are a firm favourite, but the kitchen also gets to grips with Singaporean seafood laksa (a rich, chilli-fired soup with noodles and coconut milk), and a complex assemblage involving pan-fried red mullet with crayfish tails, shiitake mushrooms, pea purée and couscous.

Meat eaters might be offered rack of lamb chops with Puy lentils and red onion confit, while desserts have featured pineapple tarte Tatin. The wine list casts its net far and wide in search of good drinking from reputable sources.

Neptune Bistro is also featured in: Good Food Guide

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Seafood

Lunch: 12.00 - 3.00pm (4.00pm Sun)
Dinner: 5.00 - 9.00pm Fri & Sat

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• Private parties