Review on Le Vacherin
'Worth finding Chiswick for,' proclaimed AA Gill after enjoying himself at Malcolm and Donna John's archetypal neighbourhood restaurant, Le Vacherin. This is a classic, bistro-style French eating place par excellence, with big picture windows looking out onto the leafy thoroughfare, rust-coloured tiles on the floor, check tablecloths and a menu that lives and breathes Gallic authenticity.
Malcolm John is a seasoned gastronomic campaigner, with more than 25 years' experience in top London establishments under his belt, and he cooks with vigour and precision. Flavours and textures are spot-on, whether you opt for slow-cooked white rabbit stew with onions and mushrooms, fillet of sea bass with a gratin of truffled salsify or something really gutsy like cassoulet, ox cheek braised in red wine or an assiette of hare.
Baked Vacherin cheese with almonds and a black truffle crust is – not surprisingly – a showstopping speciality, but the kitchen also sends out classic starters like duck rillettes with cornichons and radishes, Burgundy snails in garlic butter and baked duck egg with bordelaise sauce enriched with bone marrow. As for desserts, thoughts might turn to warm chocolate fondant with Amaretto ice cream or fig 'tarte fine' with Vacherin ice cream. The wine list is boldly and uncompromisingly French, delving into little-known regional backwaters for challenging drinking.
Le Vacherin is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Good Food Guide, Hardens, AA Guide
Rate this RestaurantCuisine
French
Chef
Malcolm John
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.00 - 2.30pm Tue-Sat (3.30pm Sun)
Dinner: 6.00 - 10.30pm Mon-Sat (9.00pm Sun)
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card
