Review on Isarn
The lady behind this sexy Islington venue is Tina Juengsoongneum, who just happens to be Alan Yau's sister (he's the entrepreneur and whiz kid responsible for Hakkasan, Yauatcha and Busaba Eathai). She opened Isarn with her husband Krish – who hails from the northern Thailand – and they have been playing to full houses ever since.
A lot of thought has gone into the image of the place, from the ever-affable pink-clad waitresses to the stylised décor with its oversized lampshades, clever lighting and weirdly fashioned tableware; there are even a few tables out in the courtyard for relaxed summertime eating. The menu's 'pick-and-mix' approach to Thai cuisine is also an eye-opener, with lots of fascinating and unlikely-sounding dishes based on genuine ingredients such as morning glory stalks.
Of course, there are estimable versions of classic stir-fries, noodles and the like, but the kitchen throws down the gauntlet with challenging ideas like a salad of chewy soft-shell crab with green mango, spicy chicken with green pulpy aubergine, steamed sea bream with chilli and lime, duck wrapped in edible betel leaves, and a yellow curry of mussels with mangosteens – not to mention a much-talked-about dessert entitled 'tago with taro and lotus seeds', which appears as cubes of green jelly topped with a faintly salty cream. Thai beer and some very decent fruity wines suit the food perfectly.
Isarn is also featured in: HardensRate this Restaurant
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.00 - 3.00pm Thu-Fri
Dinner: 6.00 - 11.00pm (12.00 - 11.00pm Sat, 12.00 - 10.00pm Sun)
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card, American Express