Review on The Man Behind The Curtain
One of the most exciting restaurants to open in Leeds in recent years is Michael O'Hare's, The Man Behind the Curtain which was awarded a prestigious Michelin star in the 2016 edition of the Guide. Occupying the former premises of Anthony Flinn's restaurant on the top top floor of a chic and very expensive nationwide designer store called Flannels. The name of the restaurant is taken from a quote from the Wizard of Oz, 'Pay no heed to the man behind the curtain', a cheeky reference to the current attention given to the cult of the celebrity chef.
Set in the eaves with some of the best views over the city, it's decked out in a palate of cool greys, whites and black, enlivened with graffiti style modern artwork by O'Hare's friend and artist, Schoph. Minimally furnished it features Greta Grossman-inspired lighting with Danish Masculo chairs set against well spaced tables. The whole place rocks to some great heavy metal soundtracks, but not too loud that it interferes with conversation.
Michael O'Hare looks a bit like a rock god himself with his long locks and silver boots, but he is certainly cooking up a storm in the kitchen, having previously climbed the culinary ladder at restaurants such as Judges in Yarm, Seaham Hall, The Landmark in London and he also did a stage at the acclaimed Noma in Copenhagen.
Open for lunch just two days a week, it allows O'Hare and his team to concentrate on their elaborate degustation menu served in the evening. His food is intriguing with unique combinations and technical flourishes. Dishes are presented in an innovative and artistic fashion with offerings such as cod loin, salt and sugar cured, crispy potatoes, dashi of toasted cod skin, ink and vinegar, while meat fans will enjoy the Iberian milk fed-lamb, juice of Gordal olive, Seville orange and ras-el-hanout. Proceedings conclude in typical O'Hare wizardry with milk chocolate, violet ice cream, potato and vanilla custard, salt and vinegar rice and beetroot vinegar, as well as a praline and passion fruit cupcake with freeze-dried berries.
Sommelier Charlotte Rasburn, formerly of the Box Tree, Ilkley is on hand to take you through the wine list, if you don't opt for the wine pairing menu.
The Man Behind The Curtain is also featured in: Good Food Guide, HardensRate this Restaurant
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.30 - 4.00pm Fri & Sat
Dinner: 6.30 - 8.30pm Tue-Sat
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card