Review on The Laughing Heart
Set on Hackney Road, close to Hackney City Farm and within walking distance of Victoria Park, The Laughing Heart is an upbeat venue that combines the virtues of a late night wine bar and restaurant, with an off-licence. Named after a poem by German-born American Charles Bukowsk, it's laid out over two floors with the dining room on the first floor and the wine shop in the basement. The driving force behind this venture is Australian Charlie Mellor, who previously worked the floor at well regarded restaurants such as Elliot's and Brawn. The dining room is a pared back space with exposed brick walls and low lights over tables featuring a unique cutlery drawer. In the centre of the room there's an overhead canopy of glasses set over an ice-filled metal trough filled with wine bottles.
Showing off his culinary prowess in the the buzzy open kitchen is chef Tom Anglesea, who previously worked in top kitchens such as Chiltern Firehouse in Marylebone, as well as Rockpool in Australia and Per Se in New York. His food showcases his travels around the globe in an ever-changing menu of stylishly presented and inventive small plates. You might be tempted by kicking off with Rock Oyster with Serragghia vinegar before moving on to chicken liver paté and plum or Cornish mackerel, broth and pickles. To finish there's fig and fennel tart or 36 month aged Comté. On Sundays diners can indulge in a Chinese banquet-inspired set lunch.
The wine list complied by Charlie is a majestic 300-bin tome knowledgeably garnered from all corners of the world, including natural and biodynamic wine. There's also a lovely selection available by the glass and Restaurant Manager Cedric Maillard, ex-Head Sommelier at Sager + Wilde is on hand to guide you through the choices.
The Laughing Heart is also featured in: HardensRate this Restaurant
Modern European / Asian / Wine Bar
Restaurant Opening Times
Dinner: 6.30pm - 1.00am Wed-Sat
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card