Launched in December 2018, Variety Jones is shining bright after landing a prestigious Michelin star in the 2020 of the Guide. Set on unassuming Thomas Street in the heart of Dublin, it's the first solo restaurant from chef Keelan Higgs, who previously plied his culinary trade in esteemed restaurants such as Luna, Locks and the Greenhouse. The restaurant takes its name from Variety Jones, an alias of one of the founders of the dark net drugs operation called the Silk Road.

The dining room occupies a long narrow space with exposed brick walls and a pared back décor, a small marble-topped bar is situated next to the open kitchen at the rear. The concise menu designed for sharing emphasises dishes cooked over the open fire, imparting a unique smoky flavour. The food here is technically spot-on, innovative and full of exciting tastes and textures.

Well-priced snacks start the ball rolling with smoked brisket, rye, pickles and well-aged cheese. Among the small plates there's oysters with Vietnamese dressing and cucumber or a delicious grilled cauliflower, trout, dill and yeast mousse. A choice of two pasta dishes might see a pearl barley risotto, soft egg, grilled onions and crispy shallots or spaghetti Alfredo. Family style dishes offer up lamb rump, smoked aubergine, onion, fennel and braised lamb morning bun or from the sea, hearth grilled trout, shrimp, garlic butter, Cavolo Nero and Charlotte potatoes. For a sweet-toothed finale there's desserts like apple and blackberry cake, elderberry and yoghurt cream.

The excellent wine list has been curated by Sommelier Vanda Ivancic with a focus on minimal intervention, and brother Aaron ensures that front of house is attentive, courteous and delivered with a smile.

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Modern Irish

Keelan Higgs

Dinner: 5.30 - 9.30pm Tue-Sat

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