Review on Lyon's Seafood & Wine Bar
Lyon's Seafood & Wine Bar is a welcome addition to Crouch End in North London, just steps away from the iconic red-brick Clock Tower built in 1895. Occupying a glass-fronted space on Park Road it's the brainchild of Anthony Lyon, the former Meraki general manager whose CV also includes well regarded restaurants such as Hix, Colbert and The Wolseley.
Inside it's light and airy featuring exposed brickwork and the building's original cream and green Victorian tiles. Green leather banquettes are set against pale wood tables and chairs on dark wood flooring. There's further seating at the custom-made white marble bar and by the window, with an open kitchen towards the rear.
Heading up the kitchen is Talia Prince, who earned his cheffing spurs in Michelin-starred establishments such as Le Gavroche and Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck. Seafood cookery is the business of the day, with the menu written up daily to reflect the very best sustainable fish arriving from the day-boats. Much of the seafood is cooked over charcoal and they have adopted a 'fin-to-tail' ethos highlighting the parts of the fish that are often discarded. Typically you might see smoked eel, coronation remoulade or charcoal grilled fish belly skewers, soy, ginger and sesame amongst the starters, before a main course of crispy soft-shell crabs with spicy Thai salad and sriracha mayo, There's also a daily option for meat lovers in the shape of spiced lamb belly, babaganoush, pomegranate, tahini, while desserts encompass offerings like pine ice cream sandwich with caramelised rosemary apples or chocolate miso marquise, lime and sour cream.
The former Head Sommelier of Zuma and Roka, Kelvin McCabe has curated a first-class wine list from independent wine producers with a focus on organic, biodynamic and minimal intervention wines. There's also a short cocktail menu designed to complement the seafood using seafood-infused gin and oyster vodka.
Cuisine
Seafood
Chef
Talia Prince
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.00 - 3.00pm Wed-Sat (12.00 - 4.00pm Sun)
Dinner: 5.30 - 10.00pm Tue-Fri (5.00 - 10.00pm Sat)