It's a quantum leap from Victorian rest home to state-of-the-art Conranesque hotel, but that's exactly what Richard and Connie Drinkwater have achieved at Bae Abermaw. The name translates as 'Barmouth Bay' and the address is definitely no exaggeration: this nineteenth-century granite edifice stands high on a hill behind the town with spectacular panoramic views over the harbour, Cardigan Bay and the Mawddach Estuary.

Bold works of art, slate and stripped wood dominate the fastidiously minimalist interior: clean lines are in, chintz is definitely out. The restaurant is reached via the original tiled entrance steps, and it's an impressive room with French doors opening out onto the garden.

Home-grown herbs and locally caught fish find they way into the kitchen, where the team produces its own breads and a range of modern dishes based on well sourced ingredients. Typical offerings on the dinner menu (lunch is by arrangement only) might include marinated salmon with cucumber yoghurt or chicken liver parfait with apple and orange chutney before - say - duck breast with orange and Cointreau gravy and a heartening dessert like hot apple and rum charlotte with cinnamon custard and caramel.

Bae Abermaw is also featured in: Michelin Guide, AA Guide

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Modern British

Dinner: 6.00 - 9.00pm Fri & Sat

Visa, Master Card, American Express

• Childrens menu
• Private parties

Accomodation is available, (14 rooms)