'Herbs are big here' – in fact Kilgraney House has acquired an international reputation for its spectacular gardens. Owners Bryan Leech and Martin Marley have devoted a great deal of time to restoring the grounds, and visitors are now able to explore the entire layout: in addition to an expansive kitchen garden, there's a tea walk, a medicinal courtyard, a medieval monastic garden and a separate area devoted to fragrant herbs.

The late Georgian house is in a lovely spot overlooking the Barrow Valley (its Gaelic name translates as 'sunny hill'), and it's handily situated between Carlow town and Kilkenny. Evening meals are served in a cherub-adorned dining room and the kitchen works to a lavish six-course menu that follows the seasons.

Proceedings generally begin with an amuse-bouche before a first course of – say – 'cushions' of smoked salmon with caper and parsley dressing and garden leaves. Next comes a soup (Bloody Mary with vodka or butternut squash with nutmeg crème fraîche), followed by a sorbet (geranium leaf, for example). Main courses look to Europe for inspiration, as in roast breast of 'guinea hen' with char-grilled vegetables and tapenade sauce. Desserts such as chocolate mousse cake with spiced pears precede Irish artisan cheeses with quince or medlar jelly.

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Modern Irish

Bryan Leech

Breakfast: 8.30 - 10.30am
Dinner: From 8.15pm Fri & Sat (Sun during BH weekends)

Visa, Master Card, American Express

• Private parties
• Vegetarian menu

Accomodation is available, (8 rooms)