Review on The Dawnay Arms
Martel Smith, the main man at prestigious No 3 York Place in Leeds recently joined the ranks of high-ranking chefs who have dipped their toes into the gastro pub market. After the requisite makeover, the Dawnay Arms now looks the business with its chunky furniture made from reclaimed wood, stripped-back walls, cream, chocolate and sage-green colours. It feels contemporary rustic, with more than a whiff of city brasserie about the style and the food.
There are three main dining areas (with the option of eating outside once garden renovations are complete). Smith himself is revving up the kitchen at present, while finding time to oversee the show in Leeds. He deals in sharp contemporary dishes based around really good raw materials and the results are brimming with confidence.
The menu is familiar enough, but dishes are delivered with real flair. To start, there might be textbook smoked Whitby haddock risotto or terrine of confit guinea fowl perfectly offset by pear chutney, while mains could take in braised shoulder of lamb with spiced red cabbage and celeriac purée, confit of duck with an earthy cassoulet of sausage and white beans or belly pork with root vegetables and zingy sweet-and-sour sauce. After that, desserts bring on the likes of lemon tart with raspberry sorbet or chocolate mousse with cherries and pistachio nuts. Service is affable, prices are modest and the short wine list does its job admirably.
The Dawnay Arms is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Good Food GuideRate this Restaurant
Gastro pub / Modern British
Restaurant Opening Times
Lunch: 12.00 - 2.30pm Tue-Sun (6.00pm Sun)
Dinner: 6.00 - 9.30pm Tue-Sat
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card